Tourist in My Own Town

Finally, I’ve been granted a vacation ! After a WHOLE WEEK of labor and toil, I’ve earned the right to a little R&R. Oh France, how I love thee at times. One week of work followed by 10 days of paid vacation ? Who’s making fun of my salary now ??

A lot of people, assistants especially, take advantage of the « Toussaint » to travel. I probably would too, under different circumstances. When you live in Europe, you’re never far from an incredibly interesting destination. And given that there are so many, it seems almost inexcusable not to use every spare minute checking them out. That’s what I told myself, at least. But as I sat at my computer, huffing and puffing and willing the SNCF website to work just a bit faster (and perhaps churn out some more palatable prices ?) I remembered that part of travel that is so easy to forget : the stress. And for perhaps the first time in life, the idea of taking off somewhere caused me to groan inwardly.

I’ve only just gotten to unpack my bags. The last thing I want to do is pack them again.

Hence the reason I decided to stay, a decision I was initially unsure about but now, one week into my vacation, find myself very happy with. I knew that I needed some time to get to know the city better. I needed to see it in a new light, untainted by the cloud of soucis that has been hanging over my head ever since I arrived. Here are some of my top discoveries.

1) Le Samovar

This Salon du The near the Eglise St. Michel is one of those places that makes me idiotically happy. I say idiotically because the grin that spreads across my face the minute I enter it can only be the size of an idiots. I’m pretty sure the owners are in equal parts flattered and terrified by my rapture. But I can’t help it. All I can feel for this place, with its comfy furniture, book-plastered walls, hippy clientele and extensive tea menu is sheer gratitude. It’s a writer’s paradise. Also, if you go on Saturday afternoon, you can read to the loll of ukuleles—there’s a group that comes to practice. And yes, I secretly want to join them !

As a side note, can I mention that my favorite word in French is « bouquiner ». It means « to read » but refers exclusively to books. I love this word because it distinguishes book-reading from other types of reading, gives it a renewed importance, as if to say « reading books is an entirely different kind of reading entirely. »

2) The Club des Crevettes

Yes, French speakers—that means exactly what you think it does : « Shrimp Club. » Though I am thinking I may want to change the name to « Societe des Crevettes » since The Shrimp Society has a nice alliterative ring. I have the authority to do this, of course, because it is my own creation. Well, mine and a couple of my friends, who shared my desire to indulge in the seafood platters offered up at the Marche des Capucins. Reasoning that 6 euros wasn’t a bad price for a plate of oysters, a bread basket, and a glass of white wine, we agreed to meet up and give it a shot. There’s something so fun and playful about eating seafood—sucking the oysters out of their shells, tearing the heads off of shrimp, dumping the inedibles in a plastic pail afterward—that mandates that you do it in company. Good company ! In my view, there’s no better way to start the weekend.

3) Cinema Utopia

I finally went ! For a film, not just the free WiFi. And though we were a bit late and therefore wound up with nosebleed seats, and the film was in German with French subtitles, therefore demanding a concentration that seemed a bit rigorous after two glasses of cider, I did quite enjoy myself. « Le Ruban Blanc » was a dark and creepy film, however, the comic relief it lacked was most definitely made up by the spectator that was audibly snoring ten minutes in. This is when I came to the conclusion that, as unrefined as our American popcorn-and-soda habit may be, it does a good job keeping you awake !

4) Steack Frippes

When I saw the name of the sign for this place, I thought it was a restaurant. Not so much. It’s actually the niftiest thrift store I’ve ever been to—full of wonderfully eccentric, well-made, and very reasonably priced clothing. That said, it may well cause my financial undoing !

5) Bibliotheque de Meriadeck

I’ve also found myself in the paradox of loving books but hating libraries, but this is one that I think I could spend all day in—its huge windows let in lots of natural sunlight and its got plenty of comfortable chairs to lounge in. At 10 euros for an annual membership, it’s a little pricier than the library back home. But considering all the films and books and music I’ll be able to enjoy as a result, it’s well worth it.

6) Le Grand Theatre

Thanks to one of the English professors at my school, I learned that this place hosts very affordable concerts the first Sunday of every month. So even lowly language assistants like myself can enjoy a show in this stunning venue. Warning to everyone else, however : show up early or you’ll be confined to the top-most level, where you have to slouch over the banister to see the stage. Fortunately the enjoyment of tango music doesn’t necessitate being able to see the musicians. Still. There was also a chocolate tasting afterward, an idea that struck me as random yet fantastic. You had to pay 4 euros extra to participate, but my friend and I decided that this was most certainly worth it for unrestricted access to gourmet chocolate. In case « chocolate tasting » calls forth the same image for you as it does for me, that’s to say : a few elegantly dressed people standing around nibbling on high-quality morsels of chocolate and murmuring prim evaluations of it in between barely perceptible chewing motions— let’s just say : no. Think more along the lines of a tense, salivating mass greedily elbowing their way up to a table. I was one among them, wondering just how much my contribution entitled me to. I don’t know who invented passionfruit and blood orange flavored chocolate, but I would like to thank them from the bottom of my heart.

7) A boulangerie called « A la Recherche du Pain Perdu » Never in my life have I so regretted not having a camera with me !

And speaking of pictures, or lack thereof, I should tell all of you that I’ve had the grave misfortune of my camera suddenly and inexplicably dying on me. Chloe was nice enough to let me take hers to St. Emilion, and I’ve been asking other friends to e-mail photos of our various excursions, but still…it hurts. Especially because I feel like I’ve only just started to develop any remote sensibility for good photo ops. I see them every day but can do nothing (except buy a new camera, of course. But forking over half my monthly salary would, I’m sure, be more painful than letting photo ops slide…right ?)

So with my days consisting of chocolate tasting, aperitifs by the riverside, shopping, concerts, and several long, aimless walks, I feel like I can confidently say I’ve had a vacation. Tomorrow I start school again. Or do I ? I e-mailed one of the teachers asking her if she’d prefer to send a small group of students to me or have me come to the classroom, and she gave me a puzzled reply. Hadn’t I heard about the schedule change ? The students were going to be following Friday’s schedule this Wednesday. I’d be taking Friday’s classes, but only some of them.

Back to Kafka-land !